Gastronomes
here were taken aback when L'Astrance won three stars in the recent Michelin
guide, because it did not meet the usual three-star requirements at all.
L'Astrance seats only 25 guests, there’s no silverware, décor is minimal, the
size of the kitchen is that of a Manhattan condo and there’s not even a menu.
Pascal Barbot, the young chef who hails from Vichy (near the central mountains
where a rare flower by the name of Astrance grows), just follows the stream of
his inspiration and offers a "menu surprise” every day. You never know in
advance what you are going to eat. That’s a lot of innovations—to say the
least—in the usual three-star model.With all due respect to Pascal Barbot’s unquestionable talent, some
whisper that there might be some political meaning buried in the award of this
distinction for the restaurant.
This small and charming spot is owned
by two former employees (some say "disciples") of megachef Alain
Passard, scion of L'Arpège; Christophe Rohat supervises the dining room, while
Pascal Barbot is a true culinary force in the kitchen. The menu changes
seasonally, but might include an unusual form of "ravioli," wherein
thin slices of avocado encase a filling of seasoned crabmeat, all of it
accompanied by salted almonds and a splash of almond oil. Other delights to the
palate include turbot flavored with lemon and ginger, or sautéed pigeon with
potatoes au gratin. The signature dish is a galette of thinly sliced raw
mushrooms and verjus-marinated foie gras with hazelnut oil and lemon confit.
